Parts

An e-scooter might look simple, but under the deck it’s a beast of moving parts working together to keep the chaos rolling. Here’s the anatomy of your ride:

• Frame & Deck -The backbone. Where you stand, and what holds it all together.
  
• Handlebars & Stem - Your steering wheel + control tower. Usually packed with throttle, brake levers, and display.
  
• Motor – The muscle. Found in the hub (wheel) or as a mid-drive, it’s what gets you moving.
  
• Battery Pack – The heart. Stores the juice and decides how far you can go before the next charge.
  
• Controller – The brain. Balances power between the motor, throttle, and brakes.
  
• Brakes – Stopping power. Can be disc, drum, foot, or electronic.
  
• Tyres & Wheels – Grip and roll. Air-filled (pneumatic) for comfort or solid for low maintenance.

• Lights – Front, rear, and sometimes deck LEDs—so you’re seen and looking sharp.
  
• Suspension – (On some models) Smooths out the bumps so your knees don’t take all the hits.
  
• Kickstand – Because you can’t just drop your ride on the ground like a toy.

Every scooter is a combo of muscle (motor), heart (battery), brain (controller), and bones (frame). Take care of each part, and your ride will stay fierce, fast, and unstoppable.

No contest—the battery takes the crown.

Why? Because it’s the heart of your ride. Bigger capacity = longer range, faster speeds, and more power… but it also means a bigger price tag. A quality battery can run anywhere from £200 to £600+, sometimes costing nearly half the price of the scooter itself.

Close behind are the motor (the muscle) and the controller (the brain). Both are essential, but when they go, they don’t usually hit your wallet as hard as a fresh battery pack.

The battery’s the priciest part of your scooter, but it’s also the part that makes the chaos possible. Treat it right—charge smart, don’t over-drain—and it’ll keep your ride running savage for years.

A good e-scooter motor is tougher than it looks. On average, you’re looking at 3,000 to 10,000 miles of ride time before it starts to show serious wear—that’s years of chaos if you treat it right.

The lifespan depends on how you ride:

• Easy cruising on smooth paths? Your motor will last ages.
  
• Full-throttle, off-road, stunt-show energy? Expect it to tap out sooner.
  
• Regular care (keeping it clean, checking connections, not drowning it in puddles) = way more life.
  

With proper care, your scooter motor will outlast plenty of tyres, brakes, and batteries. Ride smart, maintain it, and you’ll be clocking thousands of miles before it even thinks about giving up.

We get it—you want more speed. But here’s the deal: most e-scooters come with limiters for a reason—safety, stability, and the law. In a lot of places, riding a scooter faster than the legal limit can land you in hot water (and not the fun, off-road muddy kind).

That said, here’s what you should know:

• Some scooters let you disable the limiter through their app or dashboard settings.
• Others require digging into the controller, wiring, or firmware—stuff that can void warranties, fry the electronics, or turn your scooter into a very expensive paperweight.
• Speed vs. Range Trade-off: More speed eats battery life, so your epic “freedom upgrade” might mean way less ride time
  
  Yes, limiters can be removed or bypassed. But do it wrong, and you’ll break more than rules—you might break the scooter (or yourself). If you’re hungry for more power, the smarter move is upgrading to a scooter built for higher speeds out of the box.
  
  
  
  
  
  

Loose brakes? That’s a no-go. Luckily, tightening them is usually quick work:

1. Check the Type – Most scooters use either disc brakes or drum brakes. The process is similar, but know what you’ve got first.
   
2. Locate the Cable Adjuster – On the brake lever or near the wheel, you’ll see a small barrel adjuster.
   
3. Twist to Tighten –Turn the adjuster outwards to increase tension. This pulls the cable tighter, making the brake bite sooner.
   
4. Lock It In – Once it feels good, tighten the lock nut so it doesn’t loosen mid-ride.
   
5. Test Ride – Always squeeze the lever and roll a few meters to make sure it stops sharp without rubbing the wheel.
   

If they’re still sloppy after adjusting? The cable might be stretched, pads worn down, or rotor misaligned. That’s when it’s time to swap parts or let the Gorilla crew work their magic.

Tightening scooter brakes is a quick fix any rider can do. But for worn pads or serious issues, let the pros step in—because nothing kills the fun faster than brakes that don’t bite.

An e-scooter’s more than just wheels and a battery—it’s a squad of parts working together to keep the chaos rolling. Here’s the lineup:

• Frame & Deck – The bones. Where you stand and what keeps it all solid.
• Handlebars & Stem – Your steering + control tower. Holds throttle, brakes, and display.
• Motor – The muscle. Usually built into the wheel hub.
• Battery Pack – The heart. Stores the juice that powers everything.
• Controller – The brain. Tells the motor how much power to deliver.
• Brakes – The safety net. Disc, drum, electronic, or foot.
• Tyres & Wheels – The grip. Pneumatic (air) or solid, depending on your ride style.
• Throttle – The trigger. Twist or thumb lever that makes it go.
• Display – Speed, battery life, and settings all in one spot.
• Suspension – (On some models) Smooths out bumps so your knees don’t suffer.
• Lights – Front, rear, and often flashy LEDs for night rides + style points.
• Kickstand – Because laying your scooter on the ground is just disrespectful.

Every scooter is built from bones (frame), brain (controller), heart (battery), and muscle (motor)—plus all the extras that make it safe and stylish. Know the names, and you’ll know your ride inside out.

Easy—your scooter’s got an ID tag hiding somewhere, you just need to know where to look:

• Deck / Footplate: Flip it over. Most scooters stick the serial or model number on a label underneath the deck.
  
• Stem / Frame: Check the front tube (just below the handlebars). Sometimes it’s engraved or on a sticker.
  
• Battery Compartment: If your scooter’s got a removable battery, the model number often shows up on the battery pack itself.
  
• Owner’s Manual / App: Still stuck? The manual or companion app usually lists the exact model number.

Snap a photo of the label once you find it—stickers can fade, but your phone won’t forget.

Your scooter’s model number is always hiding in plain sight—usually under the deck, on the stem, or in the manual. Find it, note it, and you’ll have the key to ordering parts, booking repairs, or bragging about your exact ride.